My First Taste of Durian in Singapore

The First Time I Saw a Durian

If you spend time in Southeast Asia, there’s a good chance you’ll come across durian. Even if you’ve never seen one, you’ve probably heard something about the smell.

I first saw one at a fruit stall in Singapore. The seller had split the spiky shell to display what was inside. I knew what it was supposed to look like, but it still seemed an unlikely thing to eat.

Stalls sell the fresh fruit, but many visitors first encounter it in a drink or a dessert. I started with a drink.

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Starting With a Drink

I thought I ought to try it while I had the chance. Eating the fruit straight away felt like a lot. I figured a drink would give me a gentler introduction.

It was stronger than I’d expected.

Durian has a smell with a character of its own. Some people compare it to onions, cheese or fermented food. What I caught at first was a sharp note that reminded me of ammonia. It was hard to get past on the first sip.

I’d assumed the other ingredients would take some of the edge off. The smell came through clearly anyway.

It wasn’t a flavor I wanted another sip of right away.

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Why the Smell Travels

The smell is what gives durian its reputation. You may see signs asking people to keep durians off public transport in Singapore. Some hotels and other indoor venues also have their own rules about bringing the fruit inside.

The smell comes from a mix of volatile compounds. Researchers studying the Monthong variety found fruity compounds alongside sulfur-containing ones with strong onion-like notes. Together they help explain why different people notice such different things in the same fruit.

It’s that combination, rather than strength alone, that can be startling if you’re expecting the smell of a piece of fruit.

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Why People Keep Going Back for It

Durian is popular across much of Southeast Asia. You’ll hear it called the king of fruits in places including Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia.

That sounded like a lot of praise for something I was having trouble drinking. The fans I met talked about what happens when you get to the flesh. It can be soft, sweet and creamy. Vanilla and custard came up as comparisons.

Some people say it takes a few attempts to get used to the smell. There are plenty of ways to try. Durian turns up in ice cream, cakes, shaved ice and milkshakes.

Each preparation gives the same fruit a slightly different place at the table.

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My First Impression Was Reluctance

I came away thinking it wasn’t for me that day. The smell reached me first and stayed in the foreground while I drank.

I also met people who loved it and who wouldn’t want a trip through Southeast Asia to pass without having some.

It’s one of those things that can make two people at the same table talk as though they’ve tasted different dishes.

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What I Remember About Trying It

Durian takes some getting used to, and its reputation can make the first taste feel like a test. It’s also a fruit you’ll see people buying because they’re looking forward to eating it.

A drink or a dessert gives you one way into the flavor if you aren’t ready to start with a whole piece.

I didn’t come home wanting more. I did come home knowing the fruit had a smell I could recognize from halfway down the street.